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problems with installing 01-05 pnp sm4 to 99-00 impreza

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  • #31
    could you please confirm that my jumper settings are correct, i bought the ecu second hand so there might be something set wrong
    im a bit frustrated with this air temp issue, i cant really get it to mapping and gatebil is in few weeks already

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    • #32
      I can't see the images properly. Can you list the jumper links you want to check?

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      • #33
        For the air temp, if you feel competent, do the following (if not take the ECU to an electronics technician);

        Disconnect all the ECU plugs and take the lid off, then screw the ECU onto the base plate. Take care not to short out anything on the underside of the PCB while doing the refit because the supercap (the largish blue component in your first picture) will be charged up.

        Locate U23 on the top side of the PCB. With the main connector to the left look about half way down the connector and locate C55 (it is between C56 & C58). About 20mm to the right of C55 is U23, it is a small component with 6 legs and is just above the U23 writing.

        Plug the ECU back in and turn the ECU on. After a while check the temperature of U23. If it is hot to touch it is faulty. It can be removed without replacement but the ECU can then only be used with an Autronic air temp sensor. Removal should only be done by someone experienced in surface mount soldering techniques.

        Otherwise the ECU will need to be sent to Australia for repair.

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        • #34
          yes it gets too hot to touch. i will get it removed. should removing it give me 99-100% when unplugged the I/P sensor signal?

          just to go thru them
          my jumpers are as follows:

          JP1 linked 1-2 and 3-4
          JP2 linked 1-2 and 3-4
          JP3 linked 1-2
          JP9 linked 2-3
          JP14 linked 2-3
          JP17 linked 1-2
          JP8 no link at all
          JP16 no link at all
          JP11 linked 1-2
          JP15 linked 1-2
          JP55 linked 1-2
          JP51 linked1-2

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          • #35
            Yes, removing it should make the input % go to 99-100% with the sensor disconnected.

            JP1 & JP2 depend on the car wiring and suggest that the orange wire in the A plug is in the top row.
            JP3 is the input for turning the ECU on, in a standard loom it should be on links 2 & 3.
            JP 9 is the input selection for I/P Sw1 and the link on 2&3 means the Read Memory connector is the input.
            JP14 is the input selection for the air temp and 2&3 means input is pin B27.
            JP17 is the input selection for I/P AN3 and 1&2 means the TGV potentiometers are the source.
            JP8 partially determines the input for I/P Sw5. No link means the Sw5 input is solely determined by the JP11 selection.
            JP16 is a link to output the VSS to an external diff controller if required.
            JP11 is the remaining selection for I/P Sw5. 1&2 means the Demist Switch is the source.
            JP15 is the input selection for I/P Sw4. 1&2 means the Blower Switch is the source.
            JP55 is the input selection for I/P AN2. 1&2 means pin B16 is the source (this input has an internal 2k2 pullup resistor so can be used for an additional temperature sensor).
            JP51 is the input selection for the MAP sensor. 1&2 means the onboard Autronic sensor.

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            • #36
              a HUGE thank you Ian

              i will let you know when i get this sorted out

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              • #37
                yes, the % is now 99.9 and the sensor seems to be working fine
                Last edited by scoob; June 4th, 2016, 08:38 PM.

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