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SMC V2.00 Installation & Tuning in 2002 USDM Subaru WRX

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  • SMC V2.00 Installation & Tuning in 2002 USDM Subaru WRX

    Note: I apologize in advance for the length of this post. If you can offer some help, please see my issues list at the bottom of the first post. I wrote the rest to make a nice log when I'm (hopefully) successful

    I've come into possession of what I believe is a Subaru PnP "Beta" unit from the early 2000's. With any luck, I intend to get it working again in my 2002 USDM WRX! I have a few questions for everyone here, and I hope that I can consolidate some information that I have found along the way in order to help people like me out in the future.

    First things first, the board:

    Picture of the Main Board:

    Picture of the "Dwell" Board:

    Picture of the Board Details, S/N, Model, etc:

    I have researched here and learned that the "Beta" boards were basically an SMC that had a Dwell board added, thus making an SMC into an SMD. Unfortunately, I still have no idea what a dwell board does, but hey, at least it's a start.

    I found the latest version (at present) of the SMC tuning software here:

    I found the latest version (at present) of the Subaru PnP base map here:

    And the latest PNP manual here:

    I lucked out in that my friend still had the Version 1.00 PnP Install Manual that he used, so I at least had some idea after reading through it what manual to look for.

    At first, after installing the software I had no luck connecting to the board for tuning. It wasn't until reading the thread posted earlier that I realized that a change must be made to the shortcut in order to load the required software!

    After normal installation:
    1. Right-click the "SMC SM2" desktop shortcut

    2. Select "Properties"

    3. Change the "Target:" portion from this:

    To this:

    4. Finally, when you open the SMC software you can change your ECU type. Select "Change ECU type" from the FileCal menu:

    5. Then select "SMC-2.00-Autotune"

    6. Pressing F3 should now connect to the ECU. Huzzah!

    Installation of the SMD board itself was straightforward, but I did hit a few snags:
    1. The original Autronic temp sensor has gone missing. As such, I ordered a GM NTC style sensor from here.
    2. The board jumpers/locations didn't really match the 99-00 or 01-04 Installation Notes in the PnP manual.
    3. I have no access to an Autronic wideband, and thus used the stock O2 sensor.
    4. The map I used to drive home (the one installed on the unit) was meant for a similar but not identical car.

    After installing everything, changing a blown ignition fuse, and fixing a fuel line leak, the car started right up! It was definitely interesting hearing the ECU ramp through the idle range while it sorted itself out. I then proceeded to drive the car home and finish the 500 mile break in. It is now sitting in my garage while I sort out some issues I am currently having and hope to solve soon.


    - Car will not start without starter fluid, or sometimes at all.

    Steps so far: Checked for fuel and confirmed the fuel pump is good. Changed spark plugs and rechecked all ignition wiring. Read SMC manual on setting up a crank trigger (which doesn't seem possible with and SMC on this car?). Just got a timing light and will try to verify ignition timing next.


    - The temp sensor keeps giving an error and only reads out 25*C. I searched the forums and learned that the "Charge Temp" is actually a modified average of the coolant temp and intake temp and not another sensor reading, so that solved that mystery. I've been lucky that the ambient temp has actually been close to 25*C, but I need to get to the bottom of this ASAP.

    Steps so far: Changed Upper Board Jumper "JP7" to installed. Selected "NTC type" under Air temp sensor in software menu M1. Did a continuity check and found the IAT signal from the sensor to the ECU is good. Found out there is no wire from Pin B27 on the header to the Autronic board!

    *Solved by slicing IAT sensor to MAF sensor wires. See post #6.

    - Selecting the stock O2 sensor gives a fairly steady input. Not sure I have this set right...

    Steps so far: Selected these settings in Menu M1:

    *Solved. This setting will indeed read a stock narrowband (~0.5 volt = ~14.7 AFR). My board doesn't seem to be wired up to the stock O2 sensor heaters though, so the reading stays stuck at ~0.01 volts.

    - I'm trying to see if I can get my AEM X-WIFI wideband to provide a useful input to the Autronic via an Arduino. Unfortunately, it seems to have other opinions about even being a wideband at the moment. I will need to verify it works on it's own first.

    Steps so far: Found out in this post and this post that the Autronic takes a linear 10-30 AFR, 0-1 Volt or a linear 10-30 AFR, 0-5 Volt signal. I'll work on this some more after resolving why my wideband ssid isn't broadcasting...

    *Solved. Arduino has succesfully been used as a programmable Wideband to Autronic adapter. Called AEM, and the wideband needs to go in for repair to fix the wifi issue.
    Last edited by weps; September 11th, 2014, 06:00 AM.

  • #2
    Where are you connecting the air temperature sensor?

    That board will not be capable of continuously variable cam control.


    • #3
      I went ahead and spliced onto the green and brown IAT signal wires from the original MAF sensor. I did replace a loose connector, but still no luck. I haven't done a continuity check back to the board yet though...

      I used my stock heads, so no issues with AVCS.


      • #4
        That's one of the more elaborate setups I've seen with a SMC based board, very cool stuff.

        I am not sure if the NTC sensor will but, either Ian or Robert can best assist with either verification or steps for the procedure. It might be best to purchase one of the Autronic AIT senors as they work best. There are a couple dealers within the USA who would stock them.

        With respect to the lambda meter setup, does the lambda meter in question support an isolated ground circuit for the analog output signal? That is to say, does the analog output voltage have it's own separate ground or if the ground shared with the circuit for the heater?

        Some OEM cars come standard with some decent lambda sensor, like the Honda Civics made in the 1990s which came with the NGK NTK L1H1. I'm not saying that the L1H1 is the best thing since sliced bread, however it's pretty decent when you look at some alternatives.

        Thanks for sharing your work, cheers!
        Damien King
        Technical Analyst/Engine Management Calibrator
        Stephen's Automotive Research & Development Engineering


        • #5
          Successfully Unsuccesful

          I'm alive! And after buying a house, moving, and starting a Master's degree, have finally gotten back to working on the important things in life

          Tonight I went through and did a pin out and continuity check from the IAT sensor all the way back to the board and everything checked out. This 2002 USDM WRX pinout did quite the trick. I then pulled the board and found a blob of solder and no wire on the end of pin B27 where the IAT connects!

          (The culprit is just sticking out between the black and white wires)

          So my IAT signal is going to the board header and no further. I don't see any loose wires anywhere, so does anyone have suggestions on what to do next? The manual says to splice into the original IAT wire like I already have, but is there a chance it was wired directly to the board somehow?


          • #6
            Quick question, you have traced the AIT wiring back to B27 on the Subaru ECU connector, however the connection terminates there not going to pin 33 on the 36 pin connector at the side of the SMD/SMC board?

            Within the SMC software you can see the different wire map BMP images when you click on the help menu, when you go there you should be able to see the illustration of the SMD/SMC wire map I am referring to. What I would advise is for you to treat the problem at hand like a 36 pin SMC install, except you're using a SMD/SMC illustration to follow the appropriate hardware you have.

            The SMD differs from the normal 36 pin SMC in a couple of ways, one of the first things you may notice is that there are provisions for 4 stepper outputs used to control a stepper based idle control valve common to the 4G63 Mitsubishi and some EJ20 Subaru engines with the idle control valve very close to the throttle plate.

            The only complication I am not certain about is how to implement the NTC sensor on a SMC/SMD platform, from what I understand, that's something which may have been targeted to the SM4 platform. Maybe either Ian, Chris or Robert can comment on this as they may have done it while I haven't.

            Perhaps you can try the connection direct to the 36 pin connector and move onwards from there, hope that helps you.

            Damien King
            Technical Analyst/Engine Management Calibrator
            Stephen's Automotive Research & Development Engineering


            • #7
              Recent Updates

              Thanks sarde! For some reason I never got the email update someone had replied to my thread...

              News so far is that I traced back and realized the SMD re-uses the MAF sensor signal wire and not the IAT sensor wire! The pin hooks into E13 (for reasons I will never understand). Of course, as soon as I was done I found this gem: "Wiring for the air temp. sensor is done by using the signal wire and ground from the factory MAS which is neither used or a restriction on horsepower any longer. That's it , all done."

              The NTC sensor is now properly displaying in the Autronic software. I've done a few tests and it does read within 2*C of ambient in this hot Alabama climate. I intend to do a full correlation soon, but for now I'm satisfied. I can't do a *calibration* as I can only compare it to my two other digital thermometers and not a true calibrated reference (Accuracy vs. Precision and all that jazz). I *believe* I can hijack the charge temp calibration table to correct any errors I find, however. We'll see.

              I also successfully connected my X-WIFI Wideband via an Arduino board and it is running Autotune beautifully.

              Problem now is that it only starts with starter fluid. The original map I had won't start the car and neither will the one I've been correcting. I've read a lot of different posts (I'll expand later) but for now:

              Could you (or anyone else) look into these maps and see what looks blatantly right/wrong in them? Things that stick out as odd in Sam's map (the original) are the added timing under M3>Ign Mod3 Temperature and those in M1>Custom Cyl/Sync. Being new to Autronic I just don't know enough yet...

              Attached Files
              Last edited by weps; August 30th, 2014, 12:51 AM.


              • #8

                Unfortunately I am not terribly familiar with the USDM trigger wheels so I am unable to verify the cylinder pulse and cylinder reference configuration within your cal file. However, if you have trouble understanding how the cal should be configured to accept these inputs please do indicate this.

                From the screen shot within your response, I can see that there's a record of a cylinder sync input. What may be really helpful is to see a data log of the problem taking place and perhaps a description of how the engine is responding when the error occurs. Aside from this there a couple of check you can perform of course:

                - with an oscilloscope attached to the cylinder sync input can you see any obvious variations when the error occurs?

                - have you used a timing light to verify that fixed ignition timing values while cranking and during stable idle operational conditions match what can be seen within the software?

                - if the previous ignition timing tests pass for instances of cranking and a stable idle, you need to repeat the test for engine speed values of 2000 and 3500 rpm.

                For more information about how the trigger setup on the SMC/SMD based ECUs I would advise that you read page 13 - 14 in the SMC manual ( In addition, I will urge you to review little details like completing the throttle learn procedure, along with verification of injector driver being used and validating the fuel cal multiplier as these small details really help in a big way when a long term calbration is being completed.

                With respect to the ignition mod tables which is under M5 and not M3, it seems as the cal file has provisions for changes to the igniton values found on the base ignition table based on specific operational conditions the engine may see. If you were to navigate to M5 and review the ignition mod setup which is listed directly below the Charge Temp Estimate entry you can see how the axis setup is done for each ignition mod created. You can think of it similar (not the same) to a basic compensation table you'll see in the SM4 or perhaps any other ECU for that matter. When the specific trigger parameters are experienced, as setup by the respective tables the ECU will derive an alternate ignition value by which to control the engine by. The SMC is quite a basic ECU so it doesn't have many of the advanced functions of the new SM4/SM3 based ECUs, however, there are some clever tricks you may use to assist while calibrating engines. What I find strange is that only ign mod 3 temperature is the only table with any values, did you zero them out to disable them or was this the manner in which you received the cal file?

                For feeback on the custom cylinder/sync you have seen under M1, mode flag 7 and mode flag 13, you'll have to ask one of the users who has worked closely with the v2.00 firmware previously or Ian Hamwood at the Australia Office. My work with the v2.00 firmware on the SMC has been limited to re-assigning the spare injector outputs on a Mitsubishi PnP board.

                My apologies for not being able to assist in a much more direct manner, but I hope your follow up posts will reflect much productivity.

                Damien King
                Technical Analyst/Engine Management Calibrator
                Stephen's Automotive Research & Development Engineering


                • #9
                  For an NTC air temp sensor on those boards you also need to fit the link to the jumper under the dwell board that is nearest to the MAP sensor. One of the earlier photos shows part of the link and it looks connected but check it to make sure.


                  • #10
                    Neither of those cals look good. What injectors are in the engine?


                    • #11

                      Those were all really good tips, and got me going in some good directions. I have just gotten a timing light; just need a helper to check the cranking timing (with the fuel pump relay pulled). I do get a good 200-300 rpm readout on the software tach at least.


                      I did find the section in the manual about JP7 and installed the jumper. IAT seems to be working.

                      DW 850's are installed with information here. I saw your thread on ID1300's and almost made the switch just for this reason, as I couldn't figure out how to make a custom injector scaling. I just left the injectors as they matched the 99-00 base cal.

                      For now, all I get is this:

                      After studying the information on this site and the SMC manual and confirming this 2002 Subaru crank/cam trigger information, I just can't figure out how this car setup was ever running before
                      Last edited by weps; September 11th, 2014, 06:19 AM.


                      • #12

                        I am happy that you're in a positive frame of mind to complete the tasks at hand, which is almost never an easy feat when you're managing a rather steep learning curve. What I can tell you is that it may seem like a lot to be in the dark with but if you keep at it you'll eventually understand things well enough to feel comfortable working on completing your setup or perhaps even alterations after the fact or along the way.

                        I must say, and I am certain I am not alone here, but the injector data supplied by the Injector Dynamics brand has become a lot more than just the industry standard. They are always spot on and yes right with their data, this is why you were able to see Ian supply the user defined values based purely on the battery offset values given. However, the DeatchWerk brand you have chosen to work with have supplied the same battery offset data which can be given to Ian so that he can also submit the appropriate user defined values for you to use. Please don't be under the impression that you can deduce these user defined values on your own as this is a proprietory section of the Autronic software. Having that this, I can assure you that the Aubert Electronics office will remain willing to assist you in the best possible manner should you require these user defined values for an injector solution which isn't listed. You just have to ensure that the battery offset data submitted is completly accurate. In the past, injectors which weren't listed were sent to the Aubert Electronics office in Australia for validation test after which they would be returned to you accompanied by the user defined values you will need to use within the software.

                        These injector tests aren't a walk in the pary and they require very specialised equipment which must maintain a very high level of accuracy under a number of differing operational conditions. If this is something which interest you, you may benefit from speaking with almost any market representative or authorized dealer/representative for the Injector Dynamics brand. From my personal experience it has been a pleasure to work with the Injector Dynamics brand and they have gone out of their way to assist me in understanding as much of the technology as I can.

                        With respect to the specific trigger pattern information you have supplied I am unable to comment at this moment as I am still review it, however, if it reflects exactly what you are using then a quick call to your nearest dealer or to the Aubert Electronics office directly should have you sorted. Just for verification sake, it wouldn't hurt to have a oscilloscope on hand.

                        Here's to your continued success Weps, cheers!
                        Damien King
                        Technical Analyst/Engine Management Calibrator
                        Stephen's Automotive Research & Development Engineering


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